'Sipp'ing along the Route du Vin -Alsace Region

After a snowy adventure (click here) that took up more than half our day designated for wineries (but nonetheless a fun-filled adventure and a happy ending to that:)...my girlfriend and I finally make it on to our planned winery. We could hardly stand the anticipation after wondering if we'd even make it there. Finally at 6 pm, we screech in to L'Agape, our soon to be paradise of Vin d'Alsace.

I love the Route du Vin, this is my second trip but I still haven't seen, or tasted, enough of it. Its so beautiful, set among the foothills of the Vosges Mountains with so many quaint little villages dotted along the 170 km route (106 miles). True, tourists know it, and love it, for good reason. Get yourself a car and drive it, or be more adventerous and take it by bike - you certainly don't have to do the whole stretch. I've been told the villages in the southern part of the route (Ribeauville for example) are the nicest. I can also attest to Colmar and Kaysersberg. The people have always been friendly, welcoming and down to earth (even at the wineries where they'll happily show and tell you whatever you want to know, and more!) But you definitely need your own transportation (and a designated driver because there's lots to taste!)

Our visit to L'Agape was just what we needed. The friendly and easygoing Vincent Sipp has been in the business of making wine for ages, separating from his brother to do his own thing. We sat for a couple of hours with him and then some of his friends after he had to leave. Great people and great wine.

Just for my own reference later, we tried (and bought)
- Pinot Blanc (from 'Auxer', priced at 6,80 euros/bottle)
- Riesling (8,70 euros)
- Gewurztraminer, 2008 - one of my faves for an Aperitif (9,50 euros)

Also tried:
- Rosacker Grand Cru - wonderful! (17,40 euros)
- Pinot Noir, the only red made in the region (18 euros, available this August)
- Muscat - yum! (but not yet bottled - 9,50 euros)
- Gewurztraminer, 2007 (13,60)

Vincent, I'm told, is quite adventerous with his creations and mixing of grapes. One loyal friend, who took over 'hosting' us after he had to leave, told us he has very unique blends and isn't afraid to try new things.

I can't wait to go back, and this time stay on the Wineroute, possibly even at his guest apartment on the beautiful winery, in Riquewihr (in the February it was available for 3 nights for total of 105 euros, but I don't think they anticipate many visitors this time of year). Also wouldn't mind taking a cooking class at his (ex?) wife's, Isabelle, cooking school in Colmar called Cardamome (her favorite spice).

How cute is Colmar?

Strasbourg Highlights

Oh how I love the Alsace Region, I can (somewhat) easily communicate with the locals as they speak both French and German. Although I've almost given up on my french, even though I love the language still, my mind only seems to accommodate one other language. But I still love hearing it and remembering the days when I could have a broken conversation. But that's not all I love, the people of this region are incredibly friendly and warm, I really enjoy the rich foods available (we stocked up at LeClerc supermarket on our way out of town too to bring some of that goodness back home to Munich!) And of course, there's the Route du Vin, which I've yet to completely explore as we had a little snafu this trip and last time I was in the region with my husband we only stopped in one little town for lunch and a winery.

So, to be more specific, here are some of this trip's highlights (and many thanks to my gal pal Carole, who thoroughly researched accomodations, restaurants, and other highlights for the trip!)

Accomodation:
"Appartement Sonnenschein." We loved our cozy little apartment in La Petit France, about a 10-minute walk from the Cathedral and right across from a school (don't worry, we didn't hear all the hoopla just saw all the cute little kiddies in their classrooms) in a charming, cobblestone neighborhood. A cheerful woman named Bettina owns this renovated apartment in a 17th century typical Alsatian half-timbered house, called "Appartement Sonnenschein." There was even free WiFi which was a must for us! She speaks about 5 languages too, including English (native language is German). We actually found the place at this site There are parking meters around the apartment, but a short walking distance away (towards the Modern Art Museum) is a relatively inexpensive parking garage where we paid about 7 euros/day. More info can be found this very helpful site: www.parcus.com

- Other places we considered but did not stay at in Strasbourg are: Hotel Diana Dauphine (3-star, 69 euros/night, 'in the heart of Strasbourg', not incl. breakfast, Parking costs 12 euros/day) -- Ibis Hotel (which was right near our parking garage but didn't look nearly as nice as our apartment, even though we weren't inside), cost 72 euros/night, and the Hotel Royal Lutetia (65 euros/night, not incl breakfast). I think we got real lucky with our place!

Culture:
- Musee Tomi Ungerer - the locals, this includes Betinna and Christoph from the restaurant we visited 3 times, raved about their local artist/hero Tomi Ungerer. Bettina had several small books at her apartment of his work, which ranges from children's illustrations, to uh.. 'adult' themes, sometimes quite perverse, but never boring! After growing up in and around Strasbourg, he eventually moved to New York and became an immediate hit in the advertising world. Quite a range of illustrations and definitely worth a look. A big inspiration for him was Romanian-born artist, Saul Steinberg, whose work was also exhibited while we were here. Corbusier once wrote to him, "You draw like a king". He's considered a master of drawing and I loved his stuff. I thoroughly enjoyed perusing his work which ranges from graphic symbols and satirical cartoons to calligraphy and a sort of 'visual writing', and much more. The museum was just the right size to not feel overwhelmed, or obligated to stay too long.

Sights:
- About the only official 'site' we saw was the Strasbourg Cathedral (de Notre-Dame), originally built in the Romanesque style, fire destroyed most of that and by the 12th century building continued but in the Gothic style. But really strolling through the entire city and along the River Ile (don't miss La Petit France and the half-timbered houses too) is all the 'sights' I need. Inside the cathedral, take a look at the astronomical clock in the back corner, there's lots of neat things going on in and around it - mini statues, different stages of life passing before 'Death', interesting clockwork and a big, loud rooster. On my first trip a couple years ago, I climbed to the top for some pretty great views (it was too cold this time!)

I was waiting around outside the cathedral and liked this clock too:












These darn beautiful rose windows never seem to disappoint: